Rolex Milgauss- the perfect magnetic shield

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In 1956,  Rolex introduced reference number 6451, which became famous under the name “Milgauss”. The watch had a special purpose: the facilitate people who are working in areas where electromagnetic fields can do harm to the timing of a wristwatch. The Milgauss was fully designed as a antimagnetic watch, capable to withstand a magnetic flux density of 1000 gauss (hence the name).

The Milgauss led a rather anonymous life in the seventies and eighties, not really on the radar of collectors and buyers.  In 1988, Rolex ceased production. As a side-effect, the low sales figures made the watch rare and interest grew from watch afficionados.

In 2007, after almost two decades of absence, Rolex brought the Milgauss back in production: reference number 116400 is now available in three versions:white dial or black dial with a standard  sapphire crystal, and the GV (Glace Verte) or “Anniversary” model, with black dial of a slightly different design and a green-tinted sapphire crystal.  The GV is still in production, and demand is high.

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The current model Milgauss is equipped with amagnetic alloy Parachrom hairspring, to provide additional protection against magnetism and movement encasement by a Faraday cage.

The Milgauss, starting life in the fifties as a not-so visible part of the Rolex family, has earned its place as a special-purpose watch, beautiful by its simplicity and quality. And hey, If Bond is wearing one, it should be good!

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FOR SALE: Girard Perregaux WW.TC power reserve ref. 49851 6950 US$

Wristwatchworld is offering an immaculate Girard-Perregaux WW.TC for sale. It’s a steel ref. 49851 “Chicago” edition, nr. 4 in a series of 25. It is the 41 mm “smaller” version, but a large and impressive timepiece to wear.

The watch was delivered new in 2007 in Chicago, and it’s hardly ever used since. Everything is included: inner/outer box,manual and warranty paper.

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The WW.TC series was introduced by GP in 2000, and has become a classic and very recognizable world timer, and an icon in its own right. in 2006, the smaller series was introduced, of which very few were in steel. At http://gp.watchprosite.com/show-nblog.post/ti-401331/fi-6/ , a very insightful overview of the power reserve series is presented.

All photos are of the actual watch on offer: It is in beautiful condition, hardly ever worn. Priced at $ 14,200 when new, we offer it at a significant discount, and very right in today’s market. Please contact me at nick.meijer@gmail.com for further information.

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SIHH 2013 Preview part two: Lange und Soehne, IWC and Greubel Forsey

Today, the SIHH 2013 opened its doors, and 16 manufacturers offer their latest models and innovations. In part 2 we present the latest from Lange und Sohne, IWC and Greubel Forsey.

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The famous Glashutte brand is offering a few new models. The Grande Lange Lume 1 was already announced earlier, but celebrates today its official presentation. The semi-transparent dial exposes the ingenious mechanism of the first luminescent outsize date display watch. The hidden interior is now shown to its proud wearer. Furthermore, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar shows another variation on the 1815, already a classic since 1994.A_Lange_Sohne_GRAND_LANGE_1_Lumen-2

IWC shows the world that  they are official partner of the Mercedes AMG Petronas Formula One team with a new addition to the Ingenieur line, the Ingenieur Chronograph Racer. Already familiar with AMG as a sub-model range, the Chronograph Racer adds As  a “omnicompteur” ,that can time up to 12 hours as well as the pit stops to give the average speed over a distance reference. A whole new movement  (caliber 89361) was created to facilitate a chronograph display measuring more than minutes.

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The Ingenieur Chronograph Racer can be had with a carbon case.  The whole collection can be seen on  http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/ingenieur/.

Greubel Forsey shows the  Double Tourbillon Technique Black. It is the first black model by Greubel Forsey, featuring a titanium case and rubber strap, elements that “endow this three-dimensional chef d’oeuvre with more casual aesthetics than the classic gold and platinum models.”  Admittedly, the timepiece looks absolutely stunning!

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 The second premiere is the Double Balancier, which shows a regulating system comprising of two inclined oscillators and escapements. They are driven through a spherical differential, which provides the average of their rates via the gear train to the time display.

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The timepiece is an further evolution of GS’s ground-breaking research into inclined oscillators, resulting in a prototype in 2009, showing amovement with two inclined oscillators, each at 20°. Today’s premiere brings two inclined oscillators spatially disposed in different three dimensional planes. A marvellous timepiece, which further establishes the reputation of Greubel Forsey. We cannot wait to examine the watch more closely.

http://www.greubelforsey.com/

 
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Poll: What’s the most impressive debut at SIHH 2013?

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Romain Gauthier Logical One: Constant Force for the 21st Century

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‘Coming from an engineering background, it appeared strange to have a high precision machine forced to run at varying power levels. So I started with the premise that it would be better to have constant energy.’  with these words, independent watch maker Romain Gauthier explains the starting point which led to Logical One, his latest addition to the innovations in high-end horology.

Logical One features a triple patent-pending Romain Gauthier flat chain-and-fusee style constant force system. His reinvention of the chain-and-fusee, one of the oldest and most traditional methods of supplying constant force to a watch/clock movement , should make it more reliable, more effective and more constant. The clou of Logical One, the replacement of the fusee with a slowly rotating snail cam, which is situated at 10 o’clock to the left of the hour/minutes dial. 

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As the snail cam and mainspring barrel are on the same level, the force is always transmitted in a straight line and, as only one short line of chain is needed, the links can be bigger and stronger.

The second patent-pending innovation Gauthier has added, is a further improvement of the chain itself. The traditional method of joining chain links is improved by placing a fine sheet of paper between the links and connecting plates, riveting them together and burning the paper away.  As a result, a fine tolerance is created, which adds high-precision and rules out “the weakest link”.

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As a third innovation, Romain Gauthier has added a innovative push button winding system, with the pusher elegantly integrated on the left. As you can see, all the innovation is displayed beautifully, so the proud owner has the possibility to enjoy and demonstrate these great new innovations!

http://www.montres-rg.com/logical-one/

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SIHH 2013 Preview part one: Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille

Next week, 16 high-end watch brands will present their latest models and innovations at the 23rd Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) to be held in Geneva, from January 21 to January 25, 2013.  As one of the most important watch shows in the world, SIHH will host 12,000 visitors from all five continents, including over 1,200 journalists.

This year, the following brands will show their novelties: A. Lange & Söhne, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Greubel Forsey, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre,  Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani, Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels.

A few weeks ago we could taste the impressive novelty by Piaget. Today, two more brands show exceptional timepieces: Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille.

Parmigiani shows a new addition to their highly unusual designed Bugatti Veyron range: the Bugatti Vitesse.

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Available in two color options, orange and blue, the Vitesse is crafted from titanium and it measures 36mm x 50mm , while 22mm thick. The case is protected with a sapphire crystal with six layers of anti-reflective coating and it is water resistant up to 10 meters (33 feet).

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In concept, the Vitesse is highly similar to the 2010-version, with in normal position an open view to the in-house made caliber PF 372 hand-wound movement with 10 days of power reserve. The Swiss-made mechanism is built on 40 jewels and composed of 333 individual parts. The dial, in blue or orange, is positioned at 90 degrees for easy time reading while having your hands in steering position at your Grand Sport or Grands Vitesse.

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Richard Mille will unveil the RM 036 Tourbillon G-Sensor Jean Todt Limited Edition. Richard Mille is well known for being inspired by the worlds sporting elite, and motorsport in particular. With this watch, the long career of Jean Todt is celebrated.

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The Richard Mille team and Jean Todt have cooperated closely to develop a unique addition to the RM 036 Tourbillon movement. The high tech construction and state of the art materials house a G-Sensor, that is capable to interpret the physical constraints felt by the body during rapid decelerations, a situation common to racing drivers.

The G-meter system that visually displays the wearer’s body rate of deceleration. The mechanism visually displays the “Gs” accumulated by the wearer of the watch during rapid deceleration, thus making a driver aware when he is approaching danger road speeds. An indicator shows green and red zones to display whether de deceleration is safe for the driver. Exceptional.

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The Special RM 036 Jean Todt will be available in a limited edition of 15.

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Harry Winston Opus 12

Since the start of the millenium, Harry Winston Rare Timepieces has created a tradition that makes the world watch holding its breath each year round Basel: The Opus line. Each year Harry Winston presents a unique timepiece, in cooperation with the worlds leading independent watchmakers. In 2012, Opus 12 was the latest addition.

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Opus 12 is created by Emmanuel Bouchet, who had the honour to follow illustrous predecessors as Francois-Paul Journe (Opus 1), Vianney Halter (Opus 2), Felix Baumgartner (Opus 5) and Greubel Forsey (Opus 6).

Harry Winston claims that  Opus 12 shows innovations which are never shown before. It is not that the way the hours and minutes are shown are completely new. The way the minute and hour hands are moving actually is..

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At each of the 12 hour positions there is a two-sided marker about 5 mm long. One side of the marker is longer, representing the minutes hand, and the other side is shorter, signifying the hour hand. Each marker, or hand, is attached to a driving wheel, and each displays a blue face when it indicates the time and a neutral face when it does not.

In the middle, a minute digit counts every 5 minutes, which is the timeframe in which the short markers switch.

Every hour, it’s showtime at Opus 12. The inner crown wheel, which has remained stationary for 60 minutes, advances around the dial, driving the rotation of the hour hands in rapid succession and shows each hour blue for a second at a result.

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Opus 12 is produced in a limited edition of 120 pieces, each costing around 240,000 euros. See all the previous Opus timepieces below. More info can be had at http://www.harrywinston.com/store/timepieces/opus .

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